A guided journey by electric bike and on foot that follows the remote, majestic Côa River. It was, until the 13th century, the fought-over border between Spain and Portugal and is now home to one of Europe's largest and most fascinating rewilding projects as well as some of the friendliest people we've come across anywhere on our travels.
- Duration
- 5 nights
- How We Travel
- Electric biking
- Price
- £3,295 per person
- Group Size
- Maximum 12 guests
Welcome to The Slow Cyclist
Over the years many Slow Cyclists, upon their return from their travels with us, have encouraged us to explore Portugal. I visited the country's southern interior back in 2019 but Covid put paid to our efforts then. In recent years we have heard great things about the Côa Valley, home to one of the Douro River's main tributaries that stretches for 140 kms, south to north near the border with Spain. I first visited early in 2024, following in the footsteps of several of my colleagues, and I can't emphasise enough how quickly I fell for this charming yet largely ignored region. Its historic hilltop villages, giant wilderness, its friendly locals always eager for a chat and a laugh and, of course, the gently meandering Côa River all combine to make it a hard place for the slow, curious traveller to leave. And it is fitting that a river that cradled prehistoric tribes is now cared for so thoughtfully by local people passionate about rewilding such a vast swathe of north east Portugal. I urge you to take a look for yourself.
Oli BroomFounder, The Slow Cyclist
The Journey
Our journey begins in the picturesque, largely abandoned fortified village of Sortelha. With the peaks of the Estrela and Malcata mountains behind us, we head north towards the Douro River along one of its lesser known tributaries, the Côa. From its gentle green upper valley to the more rugged, dramatic terrain downstream, our journey takes us along undulating, empty back roads and tracks that wind between tiny, ancient border villages, with only the occasional tractor and shepherd’s flock for company. We end at the mouth of the Côa where it meets the Douro. The region, and its people, are a joy and we feel very lucky to be able to share this adventure with you.
Highlights
- Discover a corner of Portugal that is a peaceful throwback, the ideal spot for some quiet, contemplative slow travel
- Learn about rewilding efforts along the Côa River, home to wolves, wild horses, tauros, vultures and golden eagles
- Wander the fortifications of some of Portugal's most beautiful and unspoilt villages
- Explore the region in which Wellington’s men defeated Napoleon’s army
- Learn from archaeologists during a visit to a UNESCO site of prehistoric rock art
- Savour Portugal’s wonderful regional wine and farm-to-table home cooking
- Sleep in a range of charming, small and stylishly renovated village houses
Is It For Me?
Our journeys are built around friendship, exceptional hospitality and the great outdoors. Slow Cyclists are curious travellers with a bit of juice in their legs, approaching our time on a bike - or on foot - as an opportunity to explore rather than test our fitness. That’s not to say we don’t pedal hard sometimes, just that we are often distracted by the food, history and people that make a place special. When we see something interesting, we tend to stop and take it in rather than race by. If this sounds like you, we're pretty sure you'll love your time exploring this region of Portugal with us.
The Cycling and Walking
Cycling here is a joy because it is so incredibly quiet. Our route takes us along an equal mix of peaceful backroads and off-road tracks that are, on the whole, very smooth. Some sections are moderately challenging but we have time to take it easy. The region is gently undulating and the distances we cover, although not huge, are still not inconsiderable so it is important that you have good general fitness and are comfortable riding a bicycle on dirt roads and paths, up and down hills. You will note from the itinerary that to cover this vast wilderness we have chosen to cycle most of the way, but we will enjoy a couple of gentle walks on a plateau high above the Côa so that we can explore at an even slower pace.
Food & Drink
The fresh, seasonal food here in the province of Beira is perhaps one of the more unexpected pleasures of this journey. A couple of locally renowned chefs prepare wonderful meals for us at the start of the week, while later on our journey we are welcomed into homes and private kitchens to enjoy delicious home-cooked fare. We will benefit from an ultra local field-to-table food philosophy. Of course meat, fish and vegetables are the staple, served with abundant salads. All washed down with Portuguese wine and Port from this and adjoining regions.
Rewilding
Characterised by its river gorges, oak forests, rocky heathlands and scattered fields, the Côa River is a place where wild nature is now returning to the landscape due to the efforts of Rewilding Portugal and its local partners, some of whom we will meet on this journey. More than 100,000 hectares of land have already been set aside for conservation, boasting an interesting mix of natural and semi-natural habitats. As a result, the region is home to a growing population of wild herbivores such as wild boar, roe deer, red deer and wild horses, while river gorges are popular with cliff-loving animals such as vultures and eagles. The top predators here are the Iberian wolf, which is present in the form of a small pack, and the Iberian lynx, which has not been present for a number of years.
Itinerary
Day 1 - Monday 20 October - Day 1 - Arrival
Transfer 3 hours
The drive from Porto is around 3 hours. On arrival in Sortelha, there is time to walk its fortified walls and castle before sundowners and a traditional tapas supper. Our overnight accommodation is in a series of traditional houses dotted throughout the village.
Day 2 - Tuesday 21 October - Day 2 - Sortelha to Seixo do Côa
Morning Cycle 25 kms - Afternoon Cycle 15 kms
This morning it's straight into the saddle to enjoy far-reaching views as we undulate through a landscape strewn with vast boulders. Our first lunch is in a beautiful spot, prepared by a locally renowned chef. This afternoon is a shorter ride along tree-lined tracks to our home for the night, a minimalist guest house with pool and spa. The property will be exclusively ours, and we'll be hosted by the wonderfully charismatic owner.
Day 3 - Wednesday 22 October - Day 3 - Seixo do Côa to Pinhel
Morning Cycle 30 kms - Afternoon Cycle 15 kms - 25 Minute Transfer
Shortly after setting off today we will meet the Côa for the first time at a spectacular bridging point. Initially we hug the river bank but as it steepens we meander and climb up to Castelo Mendo for lunch provided by a local foundation. In the afternoon we enter a famous battleground area of the Peninsular War, notably around the extraordinary whitewashed, star-shaped fortifications of Almeida. At the end of today we will take a short transfer to Pinhel, where we will stay in a family-run guest house.
Day 4 - Thursday 23 October - Day 4 - Pinhel to Castelo Rodrigo
Morning Cycle 30 kms - Afternoon walk 1-2 hours - Afternoon Cycle 15 kms (or 25 minute transfer)
Today the Côa valley deepens dramatically as it nears the Douro and the landscape softens to include vines, olive and almond groves. Vultures and, if we're lucky, golden eagles soar overhead and in between some glorious cycling we stop to take in the breathtaking views at some of our favourite spots. After a family-prepared lunch we embark on a walk in the Faia Brava Nature Reserve high above the river and visit some of the NGO's projects. This evening we join our wonderful hosts, the founders of Faia Brava, at their guest house in the hilltop village of Castelo Rodrigo; the first of two nights here.
Day 5 - Friday 24 October - Day 5 - Castelo Rodrigo to the Douro
Morning Cycle 20 kms - Afternoon Cycle 15 kms, then 20 kms (or 25 minute transfer)
The final section of our journey, as the plateau gives way to the familiar rounded terraced slopes of the Douro, takes us along charming country lanes and tracks. We'll have a chance to embrace local food culture at a community oven in Algodres before continuing to the mouth of the Côa where it finally meets the Douro. We will end up back at Castelo Rodrigo for our last evening together. There will be an opportunity, for those who wish, to visit the UNESCO Prehistoric Rock Art Site an hour from the village. The carvings are best seen at night and a visit with an expert as your guide is a quite extraordinary education.
Day 6 - Saturday 25 October - Day 6 - Castelo Rodrigo and Departure
If you would like an active last morning, join us on a morning cycle and walk to the dramatic Agueda River Gorge which forms the border of Portugal and Spain. Alternatively we can visit a striking museum of prehistoric art at Vila Nova de Foz Côa. We will transfer you to the airport in good time for your departure from Porto this evening.
Practical Information
Guiding & Support
Our attention to detail sets us apart. You will be accompanied by a member of The Slow Cyclist team from the UK who will act as your host. In addition, you will be looked after by two of our local guides throughout; they will keep you safe on the move and ensure you get to grips with the region's history, culture, traditions and local wildlife. They are professional and fantastic fun and we are sure you will become firm friends well before it's time to say goodbye. Finally, your bags will be driven ahead each day and a support vehicle will be on hand (although never too close) in case you need a lift.
Accommodation
We stay in a selection of charming, small and stylishly renovated village houses each night. To help you get a good night's sleep, where appropriate we provide luxurious pillows in addition to those provided by the guest houses. Rooms are en-suite. Wi-Fi or a good 4G/5G connection is available each night. Lodging is based on twin or double sharing although a single supplement is available. If accommodation is listed in this itinerary it is as a guide and where required any substitutes will be of similar quality.
Bikes & Safety
We take your safety seriously. You must wear a helmet when cycling and we cannot accept bookings from anyone unwilling to wear one. The bikes you'll be riding with us are electric bikes. You will be given a brief lesson in how to use them effectively before we start cycling. If you have any technical issues during your time with us, from squeaky brakes to punctures, please let us know and we’ll fix it. And finally, please don’t worry if you feel you are too slow or too fast for others in the group. We have a guide at the front and one at the back precisely for that reason. Remember, we're not here to race; this is a journey to take time over.
Packing & Reading
Well in advance of your travels we will send you an online Information Pack including various details you need to know in advance. This will include a suggested packing list. You may also wish to start reading about Portugal and familiarise yourself with the work of José Saramago, Portugal’s most celebrated writer and, in 1998, winner of the Nobel Prize for Literature. We have chosen a selection of books to provide a varied insight into the country. Should you wish to buy any, we recommend doing so from our favourite bookshop, Mayfair's Heywood Hill.
We partner with Trust My Travel so that, in accordance with travel industry regulations, your funds are 100% protected.
Pricing & Booking
Price
£3,295 per person
Extras |
|
|---|---|
| Single occupancy supplement | £395 |
We are often told how nice it is that almost everything is paid for up front. So, while you are with us you can forget about your wallet, relax and enjoy yourselves. Included are:
- Group airport transfers (1 x arrival, 1 x departure)
- Support vehicle and luggage transfers
- TSC host & 2 x English-speaking local guides
- All accommodation, meals, snacks & drinks
- All activities
- Electric bike and helmet hire
- 100% financial security
- Donation to a local cause that is aligned with our values
- Flights
- Personal costs
- Tips (optional, of course)
- Travel insurance
- Visas (if required)
- You may wish to add a night or two at the start or end of your time with us. Casa do Rio, on the banks of the famous Douro River, is a lovely spoiling place to spend a couple of nights.
For private groups a 30% deposit is required from the group leader and, thereafter, from each member of the party. A minimum of 50% of the party are required to book and pay their deposit within one month of the group leader. The balance is due 10 weeks before the departure date.
If you are travelling on one of our Scheduled Journeys, we require a 30% deposit on the core trip price (i.e. not on any extras) at the time of booking. The balance is due 10 weeks before the departure date.
Please make sure you are familiar with our Standard Terms & Conditions before booking.
You will receive two emails shortly after booking. First, a payment receipt, then a second email explaining next steps. Within two working days you will then be contacted by a member of our Guest Services team who will look after and advise you in the lead up to your travels.
All of our experiences are covered by Trust My Travel who protect our travellers their payments
Flights
You are responsible for booking your own flights. They are not included in the cost of the trip, which has been designed to coincide with an EasyJet flight that lands in Porto (from Gatwick) at 12.10 and a return TAP Air Portugal flight that departs Porto at 18.05 (again into Gatwick). If you would like help researching and booking your flights we recommend contacting Liz Rees, who helps many of our guests with their supplementary transport requirements. Please let her know your departure dates and preferred airport. Her contact details are liz.rees@travelcounsellors.com or +44 7816 936876.
Transfers
We will provide one transfer for the group on arrival and another on departure. The drive on arrival is around 3 hours, and on departure is around 2 hours. If you need to look at alternative transport options because you are arriving or leaving earlier or later, we recommend contacting Liz Rees, who helps many of our guests with their supplementary transport requirements. Her contact details are liz.rees@travelcounsellors.com or +44 7816 936876.
Protect the Planet
We are thrilled that increasing numbers of our guests are choosing to get to and back from their Slow Cyclist adventure in creative ways, often for environmental reasons. We understand that this may not be practical, but urge you to consider doing so if you can make it work. Of course, you can undertake the research and book yourself, or Liz Rees can organise your journey for you.
Humans have lived in the Côa Valley for thousands of years, and the area is home to a wonderfully descriptive UNESCO Prehistoric Rock Art Site demonstrating human life from the end of the Paleolithic Age some 12,000 to 20,000 years ago; they depict thousands of animals, humans and abstract figures. The area played an influential role in mediaeval times due to its proximity to the Spanish border. Many of the region's fortified, traditional schist villages were placed strategically along the border with Spain in a bid to defend Portuguese territory. Across centuries, rulers constructed castles, fortified walls, chapels and churches in these villages, many of which still stand today. Between 1807 and 1814 Portugal, Spain and the United Kingdom worked together to fight against the invading French forces during the Napoleonic Wars, with the Combat of the Côa in 1810 proving a decisive battle. In recent years depopulation has provided an opportunity for rewilding this vast expanse of Portugal. More than 100,000 hectares of land have been marked for conservation with a variety of animals increasing in population. These include wild boar, red deer, wild horses, vultures and Iberian lynx. The project is being led by Rewilding Europe along with local partners who are turning the threats of land abandonment into exciting new opportunities for the region.
Exceptional Quality
Our passion for creating exceptional shared experiences in places we love is reflected in the journeys we design. We don't rest on our laurels, seeking continued improvement and innovation so that you, our guests, are enriched around every bend in the road.
Community Driven
The Slow Cyclist was born as an antidote to mass tourism. All stakeholders, from our guests and team in the UK to our local guides, from food producers we work with to the communities whose lives we touch, must feel our influence and impact is positive.
Future Focused
We travel with a light footprint but that’s not enough. We can always do more. We are part of a generation that must act responsibly in business and in tourism; one that begins to restore our planet's biodiversity and delicate ecosystems.