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Expert-Led journey 14 - 21 October

Wild Mani at Ilias Estate

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Hosted and guided by James and Charlotte Heneage at their home, one of the finest in the Peloponnese, explore the history and landscapes of one of Greece's most fascinating and dramatic regions. The Mani peninsula, on the central finger of the Peloponnese, is home to deserted beaches, seaside villages, including celebrated Kardamyli, and charming villages nestled in the Taygetos Mountains. Accompanied by local Slow Cyclist guides, author and historian James and his wife Charlotte, will share their deep knowledge and love of the Mani during this very special week.

Duration
7 nights
How We Travel
Electric biking & walking
Activity Level
Graded between 1 (easiest) and 5 (most challenging). Click for more details
Bike Type
Front suspension hybrid electric bikes
Price
£4,195 (Double or Twin share) per person
Group Size
12 people
  • "You found us the best off road tracks, ancient villages, hidden chapels, breathtaking views of mountains and sea, and wonderful picnic spots. No stone left unturned to make our trip special."
    Rick W
  • "This was our first holiday with the Slow Cyclist and definitely won’t be our last. We loved the emptiness of the Mani, the wild beauty of the countryside and the swims in the cold clear sea."
    Penny H
  • "A truly great holiday in a beautiful part of Greece. Wild flowers like we have never seen before, excellent accommodation and delicious food. The Slow Cyclist team were outstanding."
    Dominic V

Welcome to The Slow Cyclist

The Mani, with its ancient history, sense of place and wonderful hospitality is a Slow Cyclist’s paradise. A few years ago I spent some time meandering through its largely abandoned villages and olive groves at the start of my honeymoon, and had been looking for an excuse to go back ever since. In 2019 I returned on my bicycle and found the place to be as enthralling as I remembered, perfectly suited to a few days slow exploration in the company of friends, and with the beautiful Ilias Estate to return to each evening, I can think of very few ways I’d rather spend a week. I hope you agree, and have a wonderful time.

Photo of Oli Broom
Oli Broom's signature Oli Broom
Founder, The Slow Cyclist

Introduction

The Journey

We will stay in the hills around Kardamyli which are green, full of wildflowers and olive groves and was, for much of the 20th and early 21st century, home to celebrated travel writer Patrick Leigh Fermor. There we will spend the week exploring the hills and villages around this charming small town, as well as venturing further afield to discover some important ancient Greek sites. We'll be staying at the Ilias Estate, the home of James and Charlotte Heneage. Enjoy uninterrupted views over the Messian Gulf in front, and the gorges of the Taygetos Mountains behind. And the inside is equally beautiful, being featured in World of Interiors, Financial Times, House and Garden, Gardens Illustrated and Conde Nast Traveller Magazine.

Is it for Me?

Our journeys are built around friendship, exceptional hospitality and the great outdoors. Slow Cyclists are curious travellers with a bit of juice in their legs, approaching our time on a bike - or on foot - as an opportunity to explore rather than test our fitness. That’s not to say we don’t pedal hard sometimes, just that we are often distracted by the food, history and people that make a place special. When we see something interesting, we tend to stop and take it in rather than race by. If this sounds like you, we're pretty sure you'll love your time exploring the Mani with us.

Weather & Climate

Our journey takes place in October when the sea is particularly warm after a long hot summer. Day-time temperatures are between 20 and 30°. Evenings are milder. Rain is uncommon but not unheard of.

On the Move

The Walking & Cycling

Your journey is taken on electric bike and on foot. We will walk on ancient shepherds' paths across pastoral landscapes, through mountain villages and along dramatic coastal tracks. The cycling is almost exclusively on quiet tarmac roads - they are a cyclist's dream, with very few cars. There are a few long hills – both up and down – along the route, but our guides are skilled at spotting your ability and level of confidence and reacting accordingly. We will unwind with yoga at Ilias.

Swimming

The chance to swim in the crystal clear turquoise waters of the Messinian Gulf is one of the great joys of travelling through the Mani. You can be in a tiny, peaceful mountain village one minute and then at one of any number of beautiful swimming spots the next. Particularly in the Inner Mani, during the first few days, there are some really lovely stops that we incorporate into our bike rides and walks. Kardamyli too is a great spot for swimming. We provide swimming towels but do pack your swimmers!

Food & Drink

Over the years many of our guests in the Mani have commented on how well they have eaten while with us. The local cuisine is simple, fresh, delicious and the very definition of organic. Locals grow their own vegetables and rear their own animals. Seafood is a staple, often grilled on an open fire. Local cheeses and extra virgin olive oil are plentiful. Traditional puddings of home-preserved fruits and sweet pastries are served alongside thick yogurt. Local wines are some of the finest in the country.

Itinerary

We take a less-is-more approach to the itineraries we provide. We do this because we think travel is at its best when plans remain flexible and when, as travellers, our guests don't always know what's coming next. So, please treat this itinerary as a guide to how your time with us is likely to unfold. You will have experiences, meet people and see places that we have not listed here. There may also be occasions when, for good reason, we cannot fulfill every detail here. Finally, please treat distances as estimates because the routes we take may vary slightly.
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Day 1 - Tuesday 14 October - Arrival

Your driver will meet you at the airport and transport you to the Ilias Estate. It is the home of James and Charlotte Heneage that sits high above the Messinian Gulf, your home for the week. Enjoy views of olive groves overlooking the sea and the Taygetos Mountains. Tonight James will welcome the group with an introductory talk about the history of the Mani Peninsula.

Day 2 - Wednesday 15 October - Kastania Loop

Morning walk 4.5 kms - Afternoon cycle 20 or 26 kms

We begin today with a glorious walk or cycle to historic Old Kardamyli enjoying spectacular views as we descend towards the sea. We then continue on bikes to the remote hilltop Kastania for lunch in the village's only taverna and a visit to one or two of its 11 churches. It is then an amazing cycle down to Kardamyli and a cycle or transfer back to Ilias.

Day 3 - Thursday 16 October - Kitries

Today we visit the picturesque village of Kitries, overlooking the Messinian Gulf. This afternoon we will return to Ilias for a tranquil afternoon or yoga, followed by dinner at Kardamyli.

Day 4 - Friday 17 October - Messene

Before we visit the ancient city of Messene, James will tell us about its history. Discover its long history of epic battles and its many inhabitants across the centuries. We'll enjoy lunch at the ruins before transferring to Mazaraki guest house.

Day 5 - Saturday 18 October - Mystras

Today we visit the fortified town of Mystras. During the Byzantine period, this was one of the region's most important towns. Today you can visit a medieval castle and several churches with Byzantine frescos. Supper will be at Ilias.

Day 6 - Sunday 19 October - Crater & Kampos Loop

Morning cycle 18 kms - Afternoon cycle 12 kms

Today begins with a visit to an olive oil producer before a beautiful ride towards the Ridomo Gorge on quiet back roads and tracks. Lunch will be in the meadows with our friend and local restaurant owner Thomas. The day finishes with a descent back to Ilias Estate with the option of enjoying the rest of the afternoon by the pool.

Day 7 - Monday 20 October - Kardamyli and Patrick Leigh Fermor's Home

This morning we will cycle to Kardamyli to visit the beautiful home of Patrick and Joan Leigh Fermor. Patrick Leigh Fermor was an intrepid traveller, writer, scholar and soldier, writing classics such as A Time of Gifts, Between the Woods and the Water and The Broken Road. He and his wife Joan, a landscape and architectural photographer, were both great admirers of Greece, and moved to Kardamyli in the 1960s, where they built their beloved house. This afternoon we return to Ilias Estate to relax.

Day 8 - Tuesday 21 October - Departure

After breakfast we'll say our goodbyes and transfer you to the airport.

Practical Information

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Guiding & Support

Our attention to detail sets us apart. You will be hosted and guided by James and Charlotte Heneage all week. James is a historian and the author of several books including the celebrated Shortest History of Greece. He and Charlotte are great fun and wonderful hosts. In addition, you will be accompanied by a member of The Slow Cyclist team from the UK who will support James and Charlotte as an extra host. Your cycling guides will be locals who have been members of The Slow Cyclist family for years, each fluent in English and with an array of skills and interests. We’re sure you will become firm friends by the time you leave. Finally, your bags will be driven ahead each day and a support vehicle will be on hand (although never too close) in case you need a lift.

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Accommodation

We will stay at the Ilias Estate, a beautiful secluded property which sits above a terraced olive grove overlooking the sea to the west and the Taygetos Mountains inland. Ensuite rooms are spread throughout the five acres of olives and there is a picturesque infinity swimming pool. The property was built by James and Charlotte Heneage. They now live there and will host us during our stay, sharing their knowledge of the region, its culture and history. 

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Bikes & Safety

We take your safety seriously. You must wear a helmet when cycling and we cannot accept bookings from anyone unwilling to wear one. The bikes you'll be riding with us are electric bikes. You will be given a brief lesson in how to use them effectively before we start cycling. If you have any technical issues during your time with us, from squeaky brakes to punctures, please let us know and we’ll fix it. And finally, please don’t worry if you feel you are too slow or too fast for others in the group. We have a guide at the front and one at the back precisely for that reason. Please remember, we're not here to race; this is a journey to take time over.

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Packing & Reading

Well in advance of your travels we will send you an online Information Pack including various details you need to know in advance. This will include a suggested packing list but also a reading list, should you wish to soak up the Mani's literary history before you arrive.

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Pricing & Booking

Price

£4,195 (Double or Twin share) per person

Extras

Single occupancy supplement £790

We are often told how nice it is that almost everything is paid for up front. So, while you are with us you can forget about your wallet, relax and enjoy yourselves. Included are:

  • Group airport transfers (1 x arrival, 1 x departure)
  • Support vehicle and luggage transfers
  • TSC host & 2 x English-speaking local guides
  • All accommodation, meals, snacks & drinks
  • All activities
  • Electric bike and helmet hire
  • 100% financial security
  • Donation to a cause that is aligned with our values
  • Flights
  • Personal costs
  • Tips (optional, of course)
  • Travel insurance
  • Visas (if required)

For private groups a 30% non-refundable deposit is required from the group leader and, thereafter, from each member of the party. A minimum of 50% of the party are required to book and pay their deposit within one month of the group leader. The balance is due 10 weeks before the departure date.

If you are travelling on one of our Scheduled Journeys, we require a 30% non-refundable deposit on the core trip price (i.e. not on any extras) at the time of booking. The balance is due 10 weeks before the departure date.

Please make sure you are familiar with our Standard Terms & Conditions before booking.

You will receive two emails shortly after booking. First, a payment receipt, then a second email explaining next steps. Within two working days you will then be contacted by a member of our Guest Services team who will look after and advise you in the lead up to your travels.

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Getting there

Flights

You are responsible for booking your own flights. They are not included in the cost of the trip. easyJet operate direct flights from Gatwick to Kalamata on the first and last days of the trip and our transfer will meet these flights.

If you do not wish to book your own flights, we recommend using Liz Rees who can be contacted at liz.rees@travelcounsellors.com or +44 7816 936876. Please let her know your departure dates and preferred airport.

Transfers

We will provide one transfer for the group on arrival and another on departure. If you require alternative transport options because you are arriving or leaving earlier or later please contact our team on +44 1865 587 994 and we can arrange this for you. If you're interested in planning an onward journey, we recommend contacting Liz Rees who can help with flight and train arrangements.

Protect the Planet

We are thrilled that increasing numbers of our guests are choosing to travel by train and boat, often for environmental reasons. We understand that this may not be practical, but urge you to consider doing so if you can make it work. Bahn.com is a good place to begin your research on trains. Greece has a fantastic ferry service to the islands. Alternatively Liz Rees will organise your journey for you.

History of The Mani

In classical times, the Mani was not very different from the rest of Greece, though it was ruled by the renowned Spartan warriors. The real contrast with the rest of the country developed after the fall of the Roman Empire and the subsequent invasions that hastened the collapse of the Byzantine Empire, ultimately resulting in Ottoman domination of the rest of Greece. Most significant was the fall of Mystras in 1460, causing many refugees to flee to the Mani. Survival on the peninsula depended on social dominance and that, in turn, depended on ownership of land and resources. Out of this ongoing struggle evolved a unique culture with its own, undeniably violent traditions. The struggle for power in the Mani was therefore rooted in the need to obtain and control areas of valuable land and then to defend them against others, both domestic and foreign, with equal ambitions. The method of defence that evolved was the tower house, which continues to influence the architecture and character of the Mani to this day.

Our Ethos

Slow travel is about savouring the journey, the people, the sights, smells and sounds along the way. It encourages deeper connections, friendship and lifelong memories. It is local, thoughtful and sensitive to its impact. It is an antidote to mindless mass tourism. A bicycle journey – indeed, a journey with The Slow Cyclist – is a wonderful way to travel slowly. With an open mind, an open heart and a little juice in the legs, it can provide the ultimate slow exploration of new lands, their food, history, landscapes and people. But although it's our focus, we don't just want to run great trips. In fact, we spend much of our time thinking about how we can run great trips, while benefiting people and planet. Our values guide us to this end.
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Exceptional Quality

Our passion for creating exceptional shared experiences in places we love is reflected in the journeys we design. We don't rest on our laurels, seeking continued improvement and innovation so that you, our guests, are enriched around every bend in the road.

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Community Driven

The Slow Cyclist was born as an antidote to mass tourism. All stakeholders, from our guests and team in the UK to our local guides, from food producers we work with to the communities whose lives we touch, must feel our influence and impact is positive.

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Future Focused

We travel with a light footprint but that’s not enough. We can always do more. We are part of a generation that must act responsibly in business and in tourism; one that begins to restore our planet's biodiversity and delicate ecosystems.

Have more questions? +44 1865 410 356